Personally, I say F smart tv's. The smart bit is going to be old and useless in three years. The panel will last me over a decade.

Yes, you can ignore all the nagging and smart stuff and just set it to an hdmi input or something.

Then hooking up a 3rd party smart box is what I recommend.

Personally, I got a large dumb flat TV and use a small PC attached to it with Linux with all the privacy trimmings, VPN, etc. Use a browser, like Librewolf or FF with ArkenFox, along with Freetube on it which we control with KDEConnect from our phones. Once you setup the proper commands on it, it is fly and forget. You can pick a stripped, privacy focused distro, too. Most of my PCs/phones are on WiFi but for that box I plug it to the router via cable, directly, for faster display speeds. You can download other media software and run it through, if you wish.

Power usage is minimal or at least I do not see my power bill go up substantially, or noticeably. Have had this type of setup for over 15 years. Never had to worry about microphones or cameras as there are none to worry about. No terms to agree to that will get changed on a moment's notice, either. No spying or dialing home. Sometimes, the best way to win is just to not play their games. Have 0 complains.

Just set up a TCL and it has a "basic" option which makes it work without anything. I'm still trying to decide if I should buy a Nvidia shield to pair with it so I enabled it "fully" for now, will probably switch it back. It's basically android so many of these behaviours are just like on android phones

I was looking for information like that when I last bought a TV in February and couldn't find anything.

I punted and bought a SAMSUNG 65-Inch Class Crystal UHD 4K CU8000 Series (that's like 1/4 of the amazon title) and have not connected it to the internet at all. As far as not being connected to the network, it's… fine.

• There have been no issues with it trying to lock me out of features.
• I didn't try to opt-out, but my intuition tells me that's unlikely.
• No camera that I know of. I think there's a microphone in the remote, but I've never used it, and since I've never connected it to the internet (and I never use the remote) I don't really worry about it.
• I've not experienced any nag screens.
• I have not measured the power usage directly (and would have nothing to compare it to since I'm not willing to connect it to the internet even as an experiment) but I do have it connected to a power-usage sensing outlet strip and it uses dramatically less power than my previous Samsung 42" HD LCD (with florescent backlighting.) So much so that for it to not turn off the switched outlets I had to add my AppleTV to the control outlet (and for extended dark scenes even that's not enough.)
• If it's connecting to networks surreptitiously I would expect to start seeing ads or some change in behavior, which hasn't happened, so I'm going to say probably not.

As far as how good of a TV it is, (which you didn't ask, but since I'm here):
I'm not the most discerning viewer, but I think it's got a good picture. Sometimes I can see the backlight adjust itself on very dark scenes, but it's hardly a show stopper. I have an external speaker system, so really the only thing I do is turn it on and off (with the AppleTV remote). My only other gripe is that it takes a few seconds to decide to display the selected input full screen.

So I just bought a brand new "dumb" TV for $150 off of Amazon (43" 1080 Sceptre). It isn't high end in the slightest, but it IS brand new and not some weird old stock and the picture and sound don't feel too far off from my significantly more expensive higher end LCD TVs. I wanted one that I could put on a rolling stand and move between a few rooms and saw no benefit to 4k at that screen size. Other than that, there are some decent "digital signage" TVs that were decently priced available as well from Samsung and a few other brands. I didn't see anything that was OLED, but I was burned hard (quite literally with burn-in) on earlier OLED gear, so I am avoiding it until the prices get low enough that I can be fine with the chance that it will be crap after 4-5 years of use.

Get a dumb video projector.

What I don't understand is that if you want the TV to be offline, why don't you just buy a monitor and connect a digital TV receiver to it via an adapter (if it doesn't have an HDMI output). It'll be more expensive for sure and it will require a design-hostile antenna but all the privacy issues should just go out of the window.

Interesting discussion, but many of the questions have pretty lame default answers. I have a Sony bravia from 2015 for reference.

• The TVs that come with an OS instead of just firmware are smart-TVs in all aspects. Your cable TV or hdmi input is an app just like Netflix is, and is subject to a launcher. You can't make it dumb by disabling stuff.

• You can mostly reject targeted ads and disable personalized data collection. But smart TVs are priced with ads included, so completely turning off everything will require unsupported modding.

• cameras are only found in telepresence hardware, unless you want to be paranoid. Check the feature list. Microphones can be in the remotes of some TVs, but this will usually be advertised as a smart assistent if present.

• I haven't seen any TV actively complain about missing wifi (except for during setup for updates)

• unless you are tricking the TV into thinking it's online, any connection attempts/power usage would be a bug. Do note that smart-TV will by default have a standby-draw influenced by WoL or similar.

• This is pure tinfoil-territory. No hotspot/carrier carries data without being payed for it. It's also not economical when telemetry can be sent over the customers home-wifi in 99% of cases. There is no gain in hiding sim-cards in every TV. Unless you are a person of interest and are sent a modified TV in that case.

Hope this helps.

the only time i let mine connect through my hotspotted phone is to check for and download software updates. last one was about 4 months ago at justover 500mb