The ready-to-wear form would be like if North Koreans had good tailors. There is plenty of room for expression beyond it, but you need some kind of foundation for that. American fashion is based on the exploitation of children and women in Asia and the mass exploitation of resources in the most profitable way. It takes the female empowerment women are alienated from as a result of a patriarchal system and commodifies it as a disposable and uncomfortable overpriced shoe. It's about erasing all cultural identities except what the market thinks is profitable, then recuperating surviving ideas and reformation efforts so that they reinforce the system. That's such a wholly destructive industry that half my clothes look like shit because I feel bad buying new ones, and even if it makes a pretty shoe that's ultimately just a piece of leather affixed to a piece of wood. You could create that same thing with a medieval artisan working in their living room or a worker co-op that sources materials from ethical worker co-ops.
North Korean fashion, apart from their traditional dress which is really pretty, doesn't look good by any immediate measure. It's a narrow selection of colours and fabrics with anti-fashion aesthetics. But it's based on a different foundation. The design decisions are different, the relationship the producers want to create with the consumers is different, the supply chains are different, it can be adjusted along different parameters that are socially conscious instead of dictated by the demand of people who don't think you deserve healthcare or drinkable water. Everything after that is possible, you can mould the central idea of "what if we had ethically produced clothes with utilitarian value that don't sell masculinity to alienated men and femininity to alienated women at the expense of everything in the world" around any new kind of aesthetic. That as an axiom though requires some sort of radical and fundamental rewrite of the fashion industry. Even if that makes for a less diverse supply of shirts, it's a starting place that breaks from the productive and consumptive drives of the industry in such a radical way that it can't be recuperated. With that ethical production framework and healthier public relationship with fashion in place, you can make shirts that aren't dyed in blood by the time you wear them.
What I was trying to say is that as I understand it, brutalism is meant to be jarring, unsettling, even unpleasant. I can see the purpose to that, as you've explained it. But if something is intentionally jarring, it's unsurprising that many people don't like it. It's doing what it's supposed to do, but only the particularly avant garde are going to enjoy it or want to see it in their environment. I was trying to make an analogy about making it more accessible because beauty that is intentionally repellant is a pretty inaccessible concept-- runway fashion is to brutalism as ready-to-wear is to ???
I guess I'm looking for a post-brutalism style. But the more I think about it, I guess that would grow out of a better social system. If the purpose of brutalism is to expose the ugliness behind the facade, then you wouldn't need that if the system itself was equitable. You'd just have an ugly mask covering beauty then.
Right now it's the transition. We see it as the thing attacking the orthodoxy. With the better social system it's a design framework that can be built on in conditions more favourable to it or made into post-brutalist aesthetics by enabling a better climate for them. It's clean utilitarian design that has an art deco kind of grandiosity to it without using ornamentation. I like the look of it in the same way I like the look of traditional Japanese or English architecture and it's an easy springboard for ecologically-minded architecture using other materials with the same intentions, like mudbrick construction.
The ready-to-wear form would be like if North Koreans had good tailors. There is plenty of room for expression beyond it, but you need some kind of foundation for that. American fashion is based on the exploitation of children and women in Asia and the mass exploitation of resources in the most profitable way. It takes the female empowerment women are alienated from as a result of a patriarchal system and commodifies it as a disposable and uncomfortable overpriced shoe. It's about erasing all cultural identities except what the market thinks is profitable, then recuperating surviving ideas and reformation efforts so that they reinforce the system. That's such a wholly destructive industry that half my clothes look like shit because I feel bad buying new ones, and even if it makes a pretty shoe that's ultimately just a piece of leather affixed to a piece of wood. You could create that same thing with a medieval artisan working in their living room or a worker co-op that sources materials from ethical worker co-ops.
North Korean fashion, apart from their traditional dress which is really pretty, doesn't look good by any immediate measure. It's a narrow selection of colours and fabrics with anti-fashion aesthetics. But it's based on a different foundation. The design decisions are different, the relationship the producers want to create with the consumers is different, the supply chains are different, it can be adjusted along different parameters that are socially conscious instead of dictated by the demand of people who don't think you deserve healthcare or drinkable water. Everything after that is possible, you can mould the central idea of "what if we had ethically produced clothes with utilitarian value that don't sell masculinity to alienated men and femininity to alienated women at the expense of everything in the world" around any new kind of aesthetic. That as an axiom though requires some sort of radical and fundamental rewrite of the fashion industry. Even if that makes for a less diverse supply of shirts, it's a starting place that breaks from the productive and consumptive drives of the industry in such a radical way that it can't be recuperated. With that ethical production framework and healthier public relationship with fashion in place, you can make shirts that aren't dyed in blood by the time you wear them.
OK, yeah, I didn't express myself well.
What I was trying to say is that as I understand it, brutalism is meant to be jarring, unsettling, even unpleasant. I can see the purpose to that, as you've explained it. But if something is intentionally jarring, it's unsurprising that many people don't like it. It's doing what it's supposed to do, but only the particularly avant garde are going to enjoy it or want to see it in their environment. I was trying to make an analogy about making it more accessible because beauty that is intentionally repellant is a pretty inaccessible concept-- runway fashion is to brutalism as ready-to-wear is to ???
I guess I'm looking for a post-brutalism style. But the more I think about it, I guess that would grow out of a better social system. If the purpose of brutalism is to expose the ugliness behind the facade, then you wouldn't need that if the system itself was equitable. You'd just have an ugly mask covering beauty then.
Right now it's the transition. We see it as the thing attacking the orthodoxy. With the better social system it's a design framework that can be built on in conditions more favourable to it or made into post-brutalist aesthetics by enabling a better climate for them. It's clean utilitarian design that has an art deco kind of grandiosity to it without using ornamentation. I like the look of it in the same way I like the look of traditional Japanese or English architecture and it's an easy springboard for ecologically-minded architecture using other materials with the same intentions, like mudbrick construction.