Romkslrqusz

Can’t actually buy MacOS, you have to buy their hardware. For the time being connecting with an Apple Account is still fully optional.

deleted by creator

Try dropping the resolution to 1024x960 and using FSR, game will run at 45fps most of the time.

Yes!

Mostly low/medium settings, drop the resolution to 1024x960, enable FSR in the Deck’s settings, cap the framerate to 45 FPS and it’ll mostly stay there.

I’m usually really sensitive to anything below 60fps but for some reason it feels very smooth and playable this way.

The new version of this is coming across a reddit post where it seems like OP replies “Thanks, that worked!” to “In protest of Reddit's API changes, I have removed my comment history. Fuck u/Spez”

Awesome breakdown and troubleshooting so far!

I wonder if the previous owner removed the battery because of this issue in the first place.

The fact that the flickering is full-width bands that don’t appear in screenshots indicates to me that this is a signal issue to or through the display.

An important variable to pay attention to and experiment with is the display’s refresh rate. It’s possible that is what is changing with and without the battery, though you most likely would have noticed if that were the case.

Since the problem varies based on battery presence, it would be appropriate to source a replacement battery - especially if you purchased a cheap aftermarket battery. The real deal for your system is available for $80USD from Parts People compared to $20-$40USD for low quality Amazon junk.

After the battery, my main suspicion is a fault on the mainboard leaking voltage from the battery circuit and affecting the display signals. Even without the infrequency of the problem that would be tricky to isolate and remedy.

Overall, this screams hardware issue and I don’t believe you will find a software trace of it. The problem is not visible in screenshots, so the software environment does not know that it exists.

A software approach to a hardware problem is an exercise in futility.

Test your memory with Memtest86

Test your disks too. badblocks is a Linux utility. I like the Victoria and HDDScan Windows programs because they’re less pass/fail in their reporting - you can see that a disk is degraded even if all of the sectors technically respond.

This article starts off with some inaccurate information right from the onset, so it leaves me with some credibility concerns that incline me to do some of my own testing.

Since Windows 10 1803, both Windows 10 and 11 Home and Pro have automatically enabled Bitlocker Encryption during the Out Of Box Experience (OOBE) as long as the following conditions are met:

• The device is UEFI and Secure Boot enabled
• The device has a TPM2.0 device that is enabled
• There are no un-allowed Direct Memory Access (DMA) capable devices on a DMA capable bus.
• The user signed in using a Microsoft Account and had an active internet connection at the time.

It is not specific to Windows 11 and has nothing to do with Home/Pro. This has been going on since 2018.

They also mention encryption built-in to SSDs. That is a fundamentally different kind of encryption. With Bitlocker, removing an SSD from a device or accessing it from anything but the original Windows environment will require the user to enter a 25-digit key to gain data access. Without Bitlocker, the on-disk encryption does not prevent data access in those scenarios. That encryption key exists primarily so that you can secure erase the disk by changing the encryption key. The alternative is a block-level erasure, which would put wear and tear on the SSD.

Pretty disappointing to see this coming from an otherwise reputable source like Tom’s Hardware.

I’d rather edit every single post / comment to say “Fuck u/spez” but I don’t know how to use the API to do that and I don’t have the time to commit to that project :/

Add Samuel L Ipsum to your list!

https://slipsum.com