I'm far from a gunsmith but I had extensive FTE issues with a polymer 80 that I resolved with an aftermarket extractor. If you have a lot of rounds through the gun (it does look a little bit dirty) I would do a full strip down and clean the absolute hell out of it focusing on the extractor and ejector, then lube those two up well on re-assembly.
For the pain from shooting, it's an aluminum frame so it's gonna hit harder and be snappier than a steel frame, but maybe a new recoil spring, and maybe if you're getting a new spring get one of the kits that includes a few different weight springs so you can try them out.
Might even be worth trying to sell the Kimber (should be worth a decent chunk, fudds have money and love 1911s) and get something a little more modern unless you're into the 1911. I'm a fan of the S&W polymers, particularly the new Shields if you're planning to conceal carry. They're cheap, reliable, simple, and for my hands at least quite ergonomic.
I'm far from a gunsmith but I had extensive FTE issues with a polymer 80 that I resolved with an aftermarket extractor. If you have a lot of rounds through the gun (it does look a little bit dirty) I would do a full strip down and clean the absolute hell out of it focusing on the extractor and ejector, then lube those two up well on re-assembly.
For the pain from shooting, it's an aluminum frame so it's gonna hit harder and be snappier than a steel frame, but maybe a new recoil spring, and maybe if you're getting a new spring get one of the kits that includes a few different weight springs so you can try them out.
I will try that out, thanks for the tips!
Might even be worth trying to sell the Kimber (should be worth a decent chunk, fudds have money and love 1911s) and get something a little more modern unless you're into the 1911. I'm a fan of the S&W polymers, particularly the new Shields if you're planning to conceal carry. They're cheap, reliable, simple, and for my hands at least quite ergonomic.