The seat is connected at the seat post and rear axle. When the suspension moves so does the kiddo. Also the suspension on those are like a pogostick. No dampening.
So your spokes are connected to the rim, which connect to the hub. Every spoke on the rim goes to every other side of the hub, traditionally called drive and non-drive (the side with gears and side without gears). So the first spoke after the valve might go to the drive, the next spoke goes to the non-drive, next spoke to the drive, so on and so forth. The spokes that come out of the same side of the hub should have the same tone as one another. So all the spokes on the drive side of the hub should sound the same, and all the spokes coming out of the non-drive side should sound the same.
It's probably okay. Spokes settled after a couple rides and tensions may differ slightly. Good builds don't move much. True isnt so much important as balanced. Even spoke tension is a strong wheel. Pluck your spokes originating from the same side hub flange and they should have a similar tone. Like a guitar string.
If you do want to fix it yourself, it's kind of a steep learning curve if you don't have someone there to hold your hand your first couple of times, bring in a six pack of beer to your local bike shop and ask if they can show you the basics, I always loved doing that when I worked a shop. YouTube can teach you a lot, but since it sounds like you're rough on wheels, I recommend prebuilt ready to run for the least hassle. If you've got time to learn, I recommend going to a thrift store, getting a really cheap wheel, and take it apart and put it back together a couple of times, paying attention to what spokes go where. Again, super steep learning curve, but you can mess it up as you don't need this wheel to get by.
I can get a grandma from zero knowledge to pro in about 80 hours. I wish I was joking but my areas disenfranchised population wants to work in this factory for the benefits and chill atmosphere that comes with a bicycle company.
I do hate these fucking dentists I build wheels for. Don't get me started about triathletes. But holy fuck do I love bicycles. I'm grateful for them being a healthy outlet for my rough childhood.
If spokes are breaking regularly, whoever is fixing your wheel is a hack or your wheel is done for. Most likely, your spokes have too much tension or the tension is severely misbalanced. You can pluck the spokes that originate from the same side flange and they should have the same tone. Think like a guitar string. The more you tighten the string the more higher pitch the string will sound. If spokes are too far off in tone from one another they break as force moves through the wheel as that force isn't distributed evenly. Too high of a tone and your wheel is too tight, this leads to premature fatigue. There is a balance. A tensiometer helps this process but they are an expensive.
I always recommend to Clydesdales that they should run a higher spoke count out back with a thicker gauge spoke. In the long run a solid wheel will be cheaper once you factor in downtime. You can swap over the gears, tires, brake rotor if applicable, and skewers. Summer is coming and bike shop service lead time is only going to take longer. You can get a solid wheel for $250, your local bike shop should be able to get one in.
I build 4k+ wheels per year at one of the most fanciest wheel manufactures in amerikkka. I've been building wheels my entire life as BMX killed them often. Yes I registered for just this post. Good luck.
·2 years ago
·2 years ago
The seat is connected at the seat post and rear axle. When the suspension moves so does the kiddo. Also the suspension on those are like a pogostick. No dampening.