The light is immaterial (lol) to the holograms existence. They are only solid via fancy forcefield transmitted from the holo emitters. For all intents and purposes they seem to only exist as programs within whatever computer operates the holo emitters, whatever or whatever that may be. The only limit on where they can be is the speed of the computer system and links within it. They can send holo programs between the alpha and delta quadrants, but are limited by the speed and this can only send smaller programs. The mobile emitter often gets transported, but that's because they only have one. If the doctor is going somewhere with holo emitters they don't need to be transported and can just be data transferred.

Personal rant follows:

!The whole hologram plot in Voyager is honestly poorly thought out, and it basically feels like if you followed their logic Chat GPT would be a protected federation citizen. I get that the writers wanted to give the doctor legitimized personhood, but it feels like they forgot to think about what that would mean for literally every other hologram. !<

!Like, they give that one species holograms to hunt, does that mean they invented a species doomed to be reincarnated as prey forever? Is, Moriarty sentient, and if so is trapping him in a simulation moral? If they just run a hologram long enough does it gain sentience? How are they testing for this? Does that mean Vic Fontane is sentient even though he probably would say he isn't? What about that weird Irish bartender Janeway does - fair haven ran for a while, how long does it take? If you run a training program are you committing infanticide? Is turning off a hologram even moral?!<

The GM just rolls dice because they like the sounds they make.

Clearly the writer hasn't seen DS9. Morn is the show's best asset, of course he has a figure. Excuse me while I go scour eBay for one.

This link from the mastodon poster has a sample of what the images looked like. http://www.hffax.de/history/html/bartlane.html

If it has an HDMI output without too much junk on it yes. Sometimes the HDMI output will have the same interface that's on the screen, sometimes it will be clean, and sometimes it shows the interface but you can shut it off so it doesn't matter. You can usually crop out the interface in OBS but you'll lose some resolution doing that. You should be able to plug it into a monitor or TV and check fairly easily.

capture card

Hmm I need to do some research. I'm not really sure what these are for or what they do, but I'll look into it, thanks.

Sorry, probably should have explained. If you have a camera that has an HDMI or other video output they basically convert it to a USB camera.

I'll look into this as well. Seems like people have had focus issues though, based on reviews I saw.

Most of the models they put out don't have autofocus at all, you have to physically turn it to focus. Depending on exactly how your setup works that may or may not be viable - overhead cam like for playing magic probably doesn't move much, but for video conferences where you shift in your chair it might be weird if the room is a bit darker.

If you already have a camera with HDMI output sitting around a capture card can be a great way to get really good image quality for not much money. If 720p is enough I've actually had really good success with these incredibly cheap ones: https://youtu.be/daS5RHVAl2U - I've even seen them at places like Walmart and Target under the Vivitar brand so they're readily available.

If you don't look around locally for used Sony cameras. Because 1080p is only 2 mega pixels and many of the nicer old Sony cameras have clean HDMI output you can get kind of amazing image quality for very cheap. Some newer model mirrorless cameras got updates to run as a webcam directly off the USB port but they're likely out of your budget and some require software. (Edit: make sure you check if the model you're looking at has clean HDMI out - some do, some don't, and some do with some tweaking. This site has a decent bit probably incomplete list: http://wasge.es/clean_output/ )

If you want a more traditional webcam and need autofocus something like the Logitech c920 family is probably your best bet but the constant revisions may have added a software install. Most cameras are including software since realistically they're all basically the same and most of the "features" are added in the software.

If you don't need autofocus, there are a number of companies taking Sony "security camera" sensors and slapping them in boxes with screw mount lenses. ELP and Mokose are examples but there are others. With enough light these generally look pretty dang good. If you pick one up and decide later to upgrade, it can probably live mounted up high just for playing magic, especially since there are a few 4k ones that will probably let you read the tiniest of text on the cards.

Probably a weird take but if it is just the support that is printing oddly like that I would just let it ride unless it's something giant that will take a long time, especially if you can keep an eye on it.

Best case scenario it recovers in a couple of layers and you have an ugly support that you throw away anyway. Worst case it curls up and you pause the print and poke it back down or clip it off. If you have to leave it unattended it's probably best to figure something out though.

Few options:

Tree supports seem to deal with that kind of thing a lot better than standard supports. I would try turning them on and see how they generate.

You can add a small support cube / pillar with the "print as support" option and just manually check for that kind of thing. Not automatic but probably the most efficient option for print time and material.

An option everyone seems to overlook is support roof, which for large flat areas and weird spots like that can be super useful. It basically prints a raft on top of your supports so there's basically no bridging.

You can also build clever things into the STL if it's your own model. See this thread. essentially you add very small (.2mm ish) features in Z that will make the slicer bridge instead of print the hole in air.

Have them printed from a service. A normal deck of cards should run about $30 USD. The paper, laminate, ink and maybe sleeves will probably cost the same or more and will come out with way lower quality especially if this is your first time crafting them.

I've done both and unless you want really quick and dirty prototype cards or something that is super handmade that you drew on yourself instead of designed on a computer, the ones from a printing service win hands down.