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Let's have another good week everyone lets-fucking-go trans-ferret

  • khizuo [ze/zir]
    ·
    edit-2
    27 days ago
    fashionposting (mostly about pattern-drafting)

    So as some of you may know, I've been pretty into learning pattern-drafting for myself lately, and I thought that I could start out with a basic bodice block. For those unaware, a bodice block is essentially a pattern base for garments that go on your top half (bodices, essentially.) When self-drafting patterns for shirts and tops, it's important to have a bodice block that you can trace and then base the pattern off of, and then you make adjustments so that the pattern is unique and fun. For ready-made clothing and also ready-made patterns, the bodice blocks used for pattern-making are fit to standardized sizing measurements. For the home sewist, you can make a bodice block that fits your precise measurements. I'm lucky to be able to pretty comfortably fit "womens" standardized sizing, but this is one of the appeals of pattern-making for many people who don't, as the proportions in standardized sizing absolutely do not map to the diversity of body shapes out there.

    The tutorial I used for drafting my bodice block was this one from the Shape of Fabric, which in retrospect probably wasn't the best tutorial especially for a beginner, but oh well I worked it out in the end. There are a lot of bodice block tutorials out there and all of them do things slightly differently, which was the source of about 90% of my frustration with the process; otherwise it was smooth sailing. I started with a bodice block with darts because if you search up "bodice block tutorial" this is what pops up first. If I had gone in with more knowledge, I probably would have gone with a dartless bodice block to start with, because 1. it is easier and 2. it doesn't highlight my curves, which as a transmasc person I'm not the most comfortable with. A dartless bodice block is next in line to be drafted, once I get my sewing machine working (I do not need a sewing machine to do the actual drafting, but I do need it to make a mockup so I can fit the block to myself and make necessary adjustments.)

    The block I ended up drafting definitely needs some adjusting — I want to give it more ease and the sleeve part is way too small to comfortably fit around my arm, so I need to increase the armscye length basically. I also made a basic sleeve block to go along with it and I think that needs some adjusting too — it definitely needs to be longer. Other than that, I'm pretty proud of it as my first attempt, and I'll probably keep it around for if I want to draft some more form-fitting garments (though I foresee myself using a dartless bodice block more often because I prefer looser clothes.)

    For the difference between "mens" and "womens" bodice blocks (gender is fake, etc etc), men's bodice blocks never have any darts and usually have a much straighter side seam. I want to draft a men's bodice block at some time too, but I feel like I should wait for post-top surgery for that because I would want to draft it to my post-surgery measurements. Honestly the whole "top surgery" thing is a bit annoying to deal with as a sewist, because I know I'll have to redo my bodice blocks after it happens, but it's not going to happen soon enough for me to put off making them until it does.

    Thus here are my beginning explorations in pattern-drafting. I know that if I was in some sort of pattern-drafting class, I would be told to start with drafting a skirt instead; but the bodice block was calling to me. I self-drafted a circle skirt in 2022 and it was pretty easy and fun, I love circle skirts and they're an incredibly beginner-friendly sewing project for anyone who's interested in picking up this hobby. The basic pants block is apparently the hardest to fit, but I'm excited to try that at some point too.